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The beauty of traditional clothes of Dobrinishte is incredible

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The beauty of traditional clothes of Dobrinishte is incredible

The earliest costumes in Dobrinishte, whose models still has their old names, are: mente, klashnik, zabun, chishiri, dolama, elek, poyas, kaltsuni, chepchene, choene, fermeneta /choeni eletsi/, dzhobe, rusop, chalma, kasak, opretulka, kopanarche and etc. The listed costumes and clothes are male, female and children.

- The males are: the four, dolamata, kaltsun/leggings/, chepche, navushta, poyas/belt/ and fermene.

- The females are: mente, klashnik, aba, zabun, anteriya/padded jacket/, dzhobe, rusop, kasak, opretulka. The different types of clothes are in line with the living conditions, with the local climate - the raw nature of Pirin.

For example, the belt keeps the waist of colds and other diseases, absorbs moisture and keeps the body warm. It tights the abdomen, protects the person at falling, bruising, particularly necessary in freight transport. In addition, articles and essential necessities such as match, tobacco pouch, pipe, handkerchief, money, knife, etc. can be placed in it.

Cheishrshpe protects your feet from sweating, maintains body temperature evenly, and is comfortable when bending, stretching, climbing, lifting weights. They have a free span of action to work.

Dolalga is a kind of jacket. When the weather starts to cool down, the sleeves can be placed. It presses the body, keeps it tight. It balances body temperature. Convenient for work.

Dolama with a pistol on your waist, tied with a lace is an impressive robe for the horo dance. The bright chains crossed on the dolama present roubustness, strength and masculine power. The men with dolama and laces catch the eyes of the ladies and girls.

The men's clothing is borrowed from the Turkish: deep bottom underpants, tightly fastened in the legs, with laces and leggings, in wide kaleurs. Lamb or sheep's fur cap. Jacket of homespun, breech trousers with white leggings, black laces and revolutionary dolama.

Kaltsuni /gaiters/ are very comfortable and practical to work in the woods. They regulate blood circulation and heat, protect the feet from striking of hard objects. They are convenient for traveling in hard-to-reach places. When walking on icy places, the so-called "iron cats" (with hooks) can be attached to make the movement easier and safer. Kaltsuni were used by the haidouks/rebels/ and revolutioners. A necessary item for forest workers. They could move from one place to another quietly and fast. The wrappers over the leggings show the rebellious splendour, and together with the tsarvul/sandals/ they help for easier hiking and walking in inaccessible places.

A lot of beauty and challenge flow from the women's costumes.

The klashnik is necessary for mature women, it keeps the heat of the body. Similar to the klashnika is the padded jacket. Rusop and kasak are worn only by rich wives. Kopanarche is a dress for poor children. It successfully replaces the wearing of coats and trousers. A sudden change in dress comes after the liberation of the village from Ottoman domination. The first woman, dressed in a shiny fustan, is Magdalena Prateva. Vlachs shoes became popular. The rapid change of the clothes occurs mostly in women's costumes. The girls dress up dresses, skirts and blouses, and the fustans/sleeveless dress/ are worn on holidays. Today the fustan is a garment that is worn by women over 60 years of age. During slavery, the caravans of Wien bring “sherve” of the village of Lipets. Bunti were also modern, which made the female costume look more beautiful. Except to boast beauty, they used to show the amount of money one has. Still, the shashliya was of a great esteem, particularly the woolen scarf/head-cloth/. All women and girls strive to have one. This is also shown in the song "Let's go there, Yano". The song tells the story: The man invites his young bride to go to Dolni Poroy. He will buy her a head cloth. She will wear it and he will stare at herr. "Let the people who envy us die, Yano, mine and yours." And today it is one of the best songs for horo dance in the area of razlog. In that distant time the merchants of Razlog brought the head cloth to Triest. It has two colors - red and green, bright with color, mostly of roses. Even less often, the "head cloth” still can be seen beautifully worn over the foreheads of the women of Dobrinishte.

Even as additional accessories in the costume of the girls and wives in Dobrinishte, the necklaces and earrings take an important place. They are the usual accessories for holidays and weddings. You can still hear the song "Sevdalino, young girl, who bought you the necklace? A young boy bought it for me, a young neighbor”. The woman is the master who makes clothing for herself and for her children. The costumes for men were prepared by masters – tailors. The usual source for clothes is the wool. And in the region, it is in abundance. Previously spinned with distaff yarn was woven on the loom. The woven material was processed at the fulling mill not to be sleazy. Next comes the colouring with a colour  your choice. For women, the most preferred color is red, and for men - brown or black. From the red cloth the women- self-taught tailors, sew the long female fustan garment. The pleats with a width of one centimeter are sewn into the waist. Three strips of black velvet are sewn at the bottom of the skirt, which adds elegance to the garment. Over the waist, on the back, the garment is straight and without decoration. The breastplate is deeply cut, from where a richly embroidered shirt, which is fastened in the middle, can be seen. The cut-out breastplate is embroidered with several rows of black bayonets/lace, which is applied with beautiful models. The red background adds extra grace to the front of the garment. In front the fustan is gathered with a hand-knit patterned apron. Aprons are several types according to the age of the woman. The girls’ and young women’s are made of red woolen fabric with embedded thin diamond-shaped figures of bright color. The belt – “lashnitsa”, is woven with a multicolored woolen yarn. It is wound up twice and tied in at the front. Older women wear a “preskutnik” which has dull colors.

Women's socks are mostly of white woolen yarn with embroidery on the back of the foot, self-made. An immense part of the festive dress is the head cloth - the cashmere scarf, woven with soft wool, decorated with long fringes. It is tied to a knot on the right side of the head at the level of the temple. A bunch of garden flowers is stuck on the knot.

Fustan has no pleats but a free set in the waist. The costume of elderly women has also its charm and beauty. The long padded jacket is characteristic. The sleeves in the wrists are wide open. Similar to the padded jacket is the female garment „saya”. It is sewn from blue woolen cloth and is long. The front is bent two-sided with deeply cut lapels. Below it is a white „koshule” /shirt/ and a long apron on it.

The accompanying form of decoration, especially for women, is the silver and gold jewelry. Addition to the male costume is the glossy pistol and the bronze chains.

In the costume of women of Dobrinishte the red color is dominated, followed by the dark blue and sky-blue color - "heavenly decoration".

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